The Quiet Force Behind American Haute Horlogerie

Griffin & Sloane:

Don, thank you for taking the time to chat with me. You’ve been in the watch industry for decades now, but for those unfamiliar with you, how did this all begin?

Don Loke:

It goes back to the mid-70s. I didn’t grow up in a family of watchmakers or anything like that — this really came out of nowhere. I had scholarships for springboard diving but turned them down. Back then, even with a college degree, it was hard to find work. I had two older brothers who graduated from Ohio State and struggled to find work. So, I worked three jobs and tried to figure things out.

One day, a friend told me about a guy who would come into the jewellery store every Friday, dropping off and picking up watches. It struck me — here’s a dying profession with job security! I tracked down a local watchmaker, spoke to him, and ended up applying to Bowman Technical School in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. At the time, it was considered the best in the country. There was a nine-month wait just to get in.

Griffin & Sloane:

So from Bowman to the upper echelons of Swiss watchmaking — how did that journey unfold?

Don Loke:

After graduating from Bowman, I continued to WOSTEP in Switzerland, where I graduated with top honours — perfect scores on both the written and practical exams. That opened doors. I was invited to train at Jaeger-LeCoultre, and later Breguet. At Breguet, I trained under Daniel Roth. He was the one who taught me how to work on tourbillons. That experience shaped a lot of what came next.

When I returned to the US, I became the national service centre for Breguet. From there, I was pulled into broader roles — technical director positions at places like ETA, Audemars Piguet, Gerald Genta, Daniel Roth again, Alain Silberstein, Chronoswiss, Vogard. It was an intense but rewarding stretch.

Griffin & Sloane:

Your career isn’t just technical, though. You’ve worn a lot of hats in the business.

Don Loke:

That’s right. Over the years I’ve been fortunate to be involved in every aspect — design, product development, marketing, retail relationships, service. I launched Parmigiani Fleurier in the US and ran it for over six years. We built it into their number one market worldwide. We worked closely with some of the most respected retailers in the US — Wempe, London Jewelers, Shreve & Co., Westime, Osters. It was about building trust and supporting the retailer, not just pushing product.

Griffin & Sloane:

You’ve also consulted for some leading industry publications?

Don Loke:

Yes, I’ve been a Technical Advisor and Master Watchmaker for several international watch magazines. It’s important to me to contribute meaningfully to the broader horological community — whether through design, teaching, or sharing technical insight. I’ve always believed that sharing knowledge elevates the entire industry.

Griffin & Sloane:

You’ve recently launched your own DLoke Dress Chronograph. What inspired the design?

Don Loke:

I’ve always had a vision for a more elegant chronograph — something that didn’t look like a tool watch. One of the things that always bothered me about chronographs is the pushers sticking out the side. I wanted to integrate them into the case, to make it more of a dress piece.

Everyone told me it couldn’t be done. Which, of course, only made me want to do it more. And eventually, we did. That’s probably the part of the design I’m proudest of — those integrated pushers. They were the most difficult and the most rewarding.

Griffin & Sloane:

Where can people get the DLoke Dress Chronograph?

Don Loke:

You can get it directly through Griffin & Sloane, the authorised dealer for DLoke Watches across EMEA and APAC. That gives us a strong foundation to build from — and the right kind of collectors to place these watches with.

Griffin & Sloane:

You’re also developing a proprietary escapement — the Double Spring Détente Chronometer. What can you tell us about it?

Don Loke:

It’s something I’ve been refining over several years. The idea was to improve stability and shock resistance without losing the precision benefits of a traditional detent escapement. The double spring layout allows for a more balanced release and recovery of energy, and the entire system reduces the risk of unlocking during shock. It’s complex to manufacture, but the results are well worth it — especially for chronometric performance in wearable watches.

Griffin & Sloane:

Is it available yet?

Don Loke:

Not yet — it’s in development. But it’s coming. The goal is to integrate it into a future DLoke piece, something entirely new and uncompromising.

Griffin & Sloane:

And now we’re honoured to have you as our Senior Horological Consultant here at Griffin & Sloane. What’s the vision?

Don Loke:

It’s a collaboration that makes a lot of sense — Griffin & Sloane shares my belief in doing things properly — and watchmaking at this level demands a meeting of disciplines. We’re combining technical watchmaking with some of the world’s finest engravers and jewellers to create pieces that are more than simple watches. They’re objects of art, designed and crafted with precision and intent.

Griffin & Sloane:

You’ve worked on over 40 watch designs across your career. What keeps you going?

Don Loke:

Honestly? Passion. I love this industry. Complicated watches, independent brands, vintage restoration, new ideas — it never gets old. I still do repair work, I still consult, I still coach. There’s always something new to learn and something meaningful to contribute.

Griffin & Sloane:

Don, thank you. It’s rare to meet someone who’s been at the centre of this industry for so long and still loves it as much as you clearly do.

Don Loke:

Thank you. It’s been one hell of a ride — and I’m not done yet!

Don Loke is Senior Horological Consultant to Griffin & Sloane
and the founder of Horological Works LLC.